We got back from climbing Volcano Cotopaxi today.  It is located about 1.5 hours south of Quito, Ecuador and is the 2nd highest volcano in Ecuador.  This was a very different experience for us and we had a great time!  It was different because after the first hour of hiking we had to put on crampons, helmets, ropes and carry an ice ax for safely.  The rest of the hike was on snow and over a few glaciers.  It was a really neat experience and we had fantastic weather with spectacular views of all the surrounding volcanoes and towns.

Here is a brief description of the hike.  We hired a guide through one of the travel agencies in the Mariscal area of Quito.  Our guide, Fausto drove us to the parking lot of Cotopaxi National Park at 4500m (about 14,760 feet).  From here we hiked to the refugio or base camp at 4723 m (15,491 ft) where we acclimatized for the afternoon.  We went to bed around 6PM and attempted to sleep until midnight when we all woke and geared up for the 1 AM departure time.  There were about 10 groups of 2-3 people each attempting the summit this morning.  Chad and I left around 1:30AM with Fausto.  We walked about 30 minutes to the snowline, and then a little past before stopping to put on our crampons, helmets, and link each other together with climbing rope.  At this point we were feeling pretty good.

Next up was a hike up a very steep face of 30-45 degrees for what seemed like forever. The weather was perfect - barely a breeze and we had a full moon and were able to hike without headlamps.  The surrounding views and the stars above were magnificent and an inspiration to keep going.  We were hiking very slow as the air was pretty thin up there.  Secretly, I welcomed Chad´s breaks to take photos, except one time when he dropped his outer mitten and we had to retrieve it from where it slid about 100 feet down the mountain.  We went up this steep face for a very long time.  It began to become very difficult for me, my legs could only take maybe 10-20 steps before having to stop and rest/catch my breath.  Around 5:30 AM, the sun started to come up.  Due to my lack of sleep, our tiring journey, and the altitude, I was fighting off sleep as I was walking.  Around us however was a spectacular view of the surrounding volcanoes and countryside.  The visibility was perfect and we must have been able to see for a hundred miles.

We finally made it to the top of the face where we rested a bit and enjoyed the spectacular views.  The last stretch to the top wasn´t going to be as steep, but I did´t have much energy left. We started walking again, up a steep part and then on a flatter incline for a while.  There I decided that I could no longer continue.  I knew the flat part was coming up and wanted to make it that far to judge the strength that I had left.  But even on the flat part, I was struggling to move my feet and I felt a little weird.  I knew that I would still need some energy for the way down, as that is when accidents often happen.  We both decided before the climb that we would be safe in our decision making, and not try to push on if the conditions or our bodies didn’t cooperate.  We were now at about 5,700m (about 18,700 feet) and only about 700 feet below the summit at 5897m (19,342 ft).  We had been climbing for about 5 hours.  Chad decided to stay with me and return for my safety because he is a very nice husband and wanted to share this experience together.  Plus, it is always safer if we all stick together.  I am certain Chad could have made it to the top and I do feel a little bad, but we have other mountains to climb further down in South America and we both look forward to more climbing.  We spent the next hour and 45 minutes retracing our path back to the refugio.  Although we were both short on oxygen, going downhill was much easier than the uphill climb.  We were even able to boot-ski a bit when the snow conditions and grade allowed.

This was a spectacular experience for us and even though we didn’t reach the summit I am very happy and feel enriched by the experience.  If you decide to climb Cotopaxi Volcano, here is some information and advice we have:

1.    Book your guide directly, it will cut out the middle man and save you some money.  Fausto was a great guide, a nice person, and spoke English pretty well.  He’s been guiding for 12 years and can be reached on his cell phone at 099832036 or email of ftmulakarajo@gmail.com.  He charges $60-$70 per day for guiding, and will only guide 2 people at a time if you are using ropes.

2.    Spend more time acclimatizing than we did.  We were in the Quito and Otavalo areas for 2 weeks, and had climbed Mt. Fuya Fuya at 4263 meters (13,986 feet).  However, to climb a 19,342 ft. mountain like Cotopaxi, you should probably climb some other 14 and 15,000 foot peaks more recently.

3.    Strive to keep ahead of schedule.  This includes getting your rental gear early, getting to the refugio early so you can practice with your crampons and ice axe, getting to bed early, and getting up early to start climbing the mountain.  You’re going to get tired, so try to get to the top as efficiently and quickly as you can.  Take more pictures on the way down when you’re not working as hard.

4.    Don’t drink a lot of tea or water before you go to bed at the refugio.  You’d think we’d be smarter about this, but we had to get up in the middle of the night several times for bathroom breaks, and it seems that other climbers at the refugio were in the same predicament.  Bring some earplugs to help you sleep better at the refugio.

5.    Costs:  $60-$70 per day for a guide for 2 people, $20 guide tip at the end, $10 per person to enter Cotopaxi National Park, $18 per person per night to “sleep” at the refugio, gear rental $30 - $50 per person.  For gear, you’ll need plastic climbing boots, crampons, ice axe, snow gaiters, snow pants, warm long underwear, 2 fleece liners, water/windproof jacket, protective helmet, thick warm socks, gloves, over mittens, sunglasses, water bottle, warm hat, harness, and climbing rope (guide should have the rope).  You’ll also need a warm sleeping bag for your night at the refugio.

6.    You can book a full tour through any of the travel agencies located in the Mariscal area of Quito.  Ours cost $160 per person and included the guide, food, lodging cost at the refugio, and all gear.  The cost will typically not include the entrance fee to the park ($10 per person) and the guide tip (around $20).

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